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Sunday, April 27, 2008

DID YOU KNOW...

  • Over three million Americans stutter.
  • Stuttering affects three to four times as many males as females.
  • Approximately 5 percent of all children go through a period of stuttering that lasts six months or more. Three-quarters of those will recover by late childhood, leaving about 1% with a long-term problem.
  • Exciting new research in the areas of genetics, neurophysiology, child development, and family dynamics is shedding light on the possible causes of stuttering. As a result, we have made tremendous progress in the prevention of stuttering in young children.
  • Studies show that people who stutter are as intelligent and as well-adjusted as those who don't.
  • People who stutter are self-conscious about their stuttering and often let the disability determine the vocation they choose.
  • There are no instant miracle cures for stuttering.
  • Stuttering becomes an increasingly formidable problem in the teen years.
  • James Earl Jones, John Stossel, Nicholas Brendon, Kenyon Martin, Annie Glenn, Bill Walton, Mel Tillis, Winston Churchill, Marilyn Monroe, Carly Simon, John Updike, Ken Venturi, Bob Love, King George VI - all famous people who stutter.

The Stuttering Foundation maintains a toll-free helpline, 800-992-9392, and two Web sites www.stutteringhelp.org and www.tartamudez.org. We work toward the prevention and improved treatment of stuttering, reaching over a million people a year.

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

10 Techniques to Get More Comments on Your Blog

1. Invite Comments - I notice that when I specifically invite comments that people leave them in higher numbers than when I don’t. To some degree this confuses me as most of my readers know that they can leave comments on any post - but I guess inviting a comment triggers a response to some extent. Also keep in mind that new readers that are unfamiliar with blogging don’t always know about comments or how to use them - invitations to participate in well laid out and easy to use comments systems are good for helping them participate.

2. Ask Questions - Including specific questions in posts definitely helps get higher numbers of comments. I find that when I include questions in my headings that it is a particularly effective way of getting a response from readers as you set a question in their mind from the first moments of your post.

3. Be Open Ended - If you say everything there is to say on a topic you’re less likely to get others adding their opinions because you’ll have covered what they might have added. While you don’t want to purposely leave too many things unsaid there is an art to writing open ended posts that leaves room for your readers to be experts also.

4. Interact with comments left - If you’re not willing to use your own comments section why would your readers? If someone leaves a comment interact with them. This gets harder as your blog grows but it’s particularly important in the early days of your blog as it shows your readers that their comments are valued, it creates a culture of interactivity and gives the impression to other readers that your comments section is an active place that you as the blogger value. As the activity in your comments section grows you may find you need to be slightly less active in it as readers will start to take over on answering questions and creating community - however don’t completely ignore your comment threads.

5. Set Boundaries - I noticed that shortly after I set the rules for my comments section (with a comments policy) that my comment numbers jumped up a little. I’m not sure if it was just a coincidence or whether readers responded to knowing what was and wasn’t acceptable. It’s just a theory but I think a well managed and moderated comments section that is free of spam and that deals with well with people stepping out of line is an attractive thing to readers. I personally don’t mind people expressing different opinions to one another in comments but when I sense things are getting a little out of hand and too personal I often step in to attempt to bring some order to the situation (I rarely delete non spam comments). I find that people have responded to this and that comment threads generally stay constructive as a result.

6. Be humble - I find that readers respond very well to posts that show your own weaknesses, failings and the gaps in your own knowledge rather than those posts where you come across as knowing everything there is to know on a topic. People are attracted to humility and are more likely to respond to it than a post written in a tone of someone who might harshly respond to their comments.

7. Be gracious - Related to humility is grace. There are times where you as the blogger will get something wrong in your posts. It might be spelling or grammar, it could be the crux of your argument or some other aspect of your blogging. When a someone leaves a comment that shows your failing it’s very easy to respond harshly in a defensive manner. We’ve all seen the flaming that can ensue. While it’s not easy - a graceful approach to comments where you admit where you are wrong and others is right can bring out the lurkers and make them feel a little safer in leaving comments.

8. Be controversial? - I put a question mark after this one because it doesn’t always work (and I personally avoid it as much as I can these days) - but there’s nothing like controversy to get people commenting on your blog. Of course with controversy comes other consequences - one of which is the risk of putting off less vocal members of your readership.

9. ‘Reward’ Comments - There are many ways of acknowledging and ‘rewarding’ good comments that range from simply including a ‘good comment’ remark through to highlighting them in other posts that you write. Drawing attention to your readers who use comments well affirms them but also draws attention of other readers to good use of your comments section.

10. Make it Easy to Comment - I leave a lot of comments on a lot of blogs each week - but there is one situation where I rarely leave a comment - even if the post deserves it - blogs that require me to login before making a comment. Maybe I’m lazy (actually there’s no maybe about it) or maybe there’s something inside me that worries about giving out my personal details - but when I see a comments section that requires registration I almost always (95% or more of the time) leave the blog without leaving the comment that I want to make. While I totally understand the temptation to require registration for comments (combatting spam in most cases) something inside me resists participating in such comments sections. Registration is a hurdle you put in front of your readers that some will be willing to leap but that others will balk at (the same is often said about other comments section requirements that go beyond the basics). Keep your comments section as simple and as easy to use as possible.

So - what do you think? How have you increased the levels of comments on your blog (had to ask)?

Sunday, April 20, 2008

How to Write a Better Weblog

There’s been a recent retread of the weblogging phenomenon following a few articles at PC Mag, Time, and The Morning News. After posting my own short list of things that ought to be banned from weblogs, I realized that a list of things to be encouraged would be more useful. Some people are new to weblogging. Others want to raise the bar. In the end, everybody wants better sites, and some of these suggestions might help.

The bulk of this advice focuses on writing, which is generally at the heart of weblogs. All of them are obvious yet often ignored, to the detriment of both the readers and the writers. They’re aimed at people trying to improve the general appeal of their weblogs, but folks writing privately for friends and family might also find them useful. We’ll begin with an example.

Professional vs. Amateur

The professional writer writes:

New York is magnificent in spring.

The amateur writer writes:

I know this is a cliché nowadays, especially after 9/11, but I live in New York, which is much cleaner and safer now because of Giuliani, who really ought to be president after handling the crisis so well, and I know I’ve had some issues in the past with the mayor’s handling of the NYPD in regard to African Americans and his war against art involving sacred religious icons and feces (hello!? freedom of expression!?), but when all is said and done, New York, as maybe the best example of the ‘melting pot’ etc. etc., is a great city, especially when it starts getting warmer and people go outside more, like around March or April.

The amateur reads the professional and cannot bear the understatement. The professional reads the amateur, gives up after the word “nowadays,” and decides that he/she has been video–gamed to idiocy; the amateurs are hopeless; this new wave will be the last.

Not true. Amateurs are writing as they’ve always written. Self-consciousness, self-doubt, awkwardness, and overcompensation are perennial hallmarks of the beginning writer. The reason today’s amateurs seem more profoundly un–profound could be a simple matter of exposure.

There used to be impenetrable gatekeepers. Now, CNN roundtables, documentaries, independent films, MTV, and the web—which has no gatekeepers in most countries—are broadcasting every poorly crafted phrase and half–cooked idea imaginable. Patience, readers. All is not lost.

Great writing can’t be taught, but atrocious writing is entirely preventable.

The Rules

There are, in fact, rules—even online. Rules are not restrictions. Grammar, spelling, punctuation, rhythm, focus, syntax, and structure aren’t especially romantic terms, until you get to know them. Writers want to make sense. They want to move the reader. It ain’t never gonna happen if you got busted paragraphs, mistaken punctuation and, bad rhythm, not to mention kreative spelling: see? Clarity is key. Learn the rules. Break ’em later.

The best rules can’t be stated, but you can learn them by reading excellent writing. Develop an ear. If you know what works, you’ll start to emulate it. Conversely, it’s good to study truly horrendous language, stuff that makes you embarrassed for those responsible. You’ll find yourself mortally afraid of—and automatically avoiding—the same mistakes in your own writing. Hemingway said, “The most essential gift for a good writer is a built–in shock–proof shit-detector.” (They’re cheap if you haven’t already got one.) This is especially important for web writers, most of whom are publishing without the benefit of editors.

Declarative sentences are good. Web readers demand pith.

Bold statements are dangerous, but they won’t kill you. Timidity will—or at least your traffic. Everyone has a hazy opinion or two. The writer’s goal is clarity. Vague feelings or ideas don’t have to be vaguely written. Imagine two sites with similar descriptions of an indescribable sensation. Which would you remember:

A: “Her physical affections made his world feel somehow different and indescribably alive.”

B: “She kissed him with her tongue until the leaves on the trees, the soles of his shoes, and even his thoughts, felt like happy tongues.”

First–person point of view is not the only point of view. I should be necessary, or else avoided. This is not to condemn first person, but to suggest that it needn’t be the default choice. If first-person perfectly suits your subject matter, use it. But maybe second– or third–person is more effective. Consider your options.

The advice “write only what you know” increases the likelihood that you will know the same things forever.

Offer Something New

And are you attempting to produce quality material, or just killing time? If you’re killing time, O.K., but don’t be startled when your audience is small and no one links to you. Instead of publishing disconnected diversions (by the way, look at this, check it out, here you go, really cool), connect the dots or offer a full opinion.

Better yet, take The Nick Hornby Challenge. In High Fidelity, the narrator is described as a professional critic. He’s good at it. Music criticism is what he does. Then he starts an independent label and produces a record made by a couple of talented, shoplifting skate punks in order to, as his girlfriend says, “put something new into the world.”

The web is a tremendous hodgepodge of media. There are sites about books, sites about music, and sites about sites. Plenty of weblogs center on consuming and critiquing other people’s work, and all this recycling and redistribution has its place—a very important place that we’ll make note of later on. But why not make something new? Instead of linking to a few articles every day, write one. Instead of showcasing and discussing the latest designs, design something. You’ve got this absolutely batty opportunity of instant global publishing. Publish! The world is your oyster!

Amuse Your Readers

If you want to share an anecdote or story from your life, pretend the readers weren’t there. Because they weren’t. “You had to be there” never makes a joke funny.

Readers crave your anecdotes and stories. They really do. So give ‘em the whole megillah. Instead of, “The party was a riot!” or “I’m depressed today,” carefully explain why. Elaborate. Parties and depression are perfectly good writing subjects. The Great Gatsby, for instance, has plenty of both.

Anything makes a good subject, as long as you take your time and crystallize the details, tying them together and actually telling a story, rather than offering a simple list of facts. Do readers really want to know how miserable you are? Yes. But they’re going to want details, the precise odor of your room, why you haven’t showered in a week, or how exactly somebody broke your heart. One–liners won’t suffice.

At the same time, you don’t want to over–explain yourself. Understatement can be thunderous, or humorous, or heartbreaking. Or all three.

Have a sense of humor. Everything is funny. Being gay is funny. Being straight is funny. Being American is funny. It’s OK to laugh at things. Making light of serious situations or emotions doesn’t have to be disrespectful or hurtful. And just because something is funny doesn’t mean it has to be light. Example: “When the kidnapper called the blind woman, he told her that she’d never see her son again.” Some of the best humor is heavy.

Being a writer is funny. Don’t take yourself too seriously.

Have a thick skin. If your site gets singled out for attack by some malicious web devil, relax. You’ve gone public and you have to expect both rational and irrational criticism. Listen, people rag on Shakespeare all the time. If you’re a genuine talent, there’ll be plenty of people complimenting your efforts. If someone has a bona fide gripe with something you’ve produced, pay attention—it’s worth considering. If someone has a petty gripe or simply gets nasty, let it go. Get back to producing your site. If novelists spent their time responding to negative reviews, we’d be fresh out of novels.

Beyond Wired

One popular complaint about weblogs is that they all link to the same sites, over and over and over. Sometimes that’s true and sometimes it isn’t. But if you do find yourself linking to a Wired article that’s already been noted on ten other sites, you might consider finding something else.

Sharing great discoveries is largely why weblogging got so hot and sultry in the first place. Big, heavily funded sites weren’t acknowledging the grace notes and hidden talents of the web, so it was up to webloggers. For some webloggers, it still is. Wired doesn’t need your help as much as undiscovered sites, which may be offering equally good (or better) material.

Successful Weblogging

Producing a successful weblog, however you define that, is tough. Instead of money, fame, and Jacuzzis full of sexy nude readers, you’ll probably feel like you’re shouting in outer space. And you probably will be. In 1994, you could hook a thousand readers if you wrote about the mold underneath your refrigerator. Now, you’re lucky to get a hundred regulars, even if your work is excellent.

No matter what your audience size, you ought to write as if your readership consisted of paid subscribers whose subscriptions were perpetually about to expire. There’s no need to pander. Compel them to re–subscribe.

As the beginning of this article noted, a big audience isn’t everybody’s goal, and most of these suggestions are intended for people working to expand their readership. As for actually achieving that expansion, it’s back to the hard sell.

The days when simply having a website equated to visibility are over. The average person doesn’t even know to look for weblogs. When someone does, there’s an array of choices so endless that finding your site will largely be a stroke of luck.

Links and word of mouth can go a long way, but don’t expect a big following right off the bat. You might never get a following. More than ever, you’d better be doing this to satisfy yourself, because it could be your only reward. But if your goal is to satisfy readers, satisfying yourself is a good start.



Friday, April 18, 2008

How to Get 88 Minutes Movie Info

In 88 Minutes Al Pacino stars as Dr. Jack Gramm, a college professor who assists the FBI as an expert in forensic psychiatry. Gramm receives a phone call threatening him that he has only 88 minutes to live. Gramm must utilize all his skills to find out who the would-be assailant is before the clock runs out. Here's some more info about the movie and suggestions where to get more

How-To Steps

Step1
Al Pacino receives a death threat Behind the Scenes. 88 Minutes is directed by John Avnet, two-time Emmy and Director’s Guild of America nominee. Avnet will team again with Pacino in Righteous Kill, which opens in September 2008. Gary Scott Thompson is the film’s writer. Thompson’s previous credits include 2 Fast 2 Furious, and Hollow Man 2. He is also the writer/creator of the television show Las Vegas.

Step2
Poster for Pacino The Backstory. The film was shot in 2005 and released outside the United States in 2007. It was released on DVD in Israel and was pirated throughout the world. Copies turned up even in the U.S. As a result, the U.S. release date was pushed back to April 2008. The film was shot on The University of British Columbia and UCLA campuses. Budget was $30 million.

Step3
Alicia Witt Co-stars in 88 Minutes 88 Minutes Cast. Joining Pacino are Alicia Witt, Amy Brenneman, Leelee Sobieski, and William Forsythe. Brenneman plays Gramm’s ex-wife Shelly; Forsythe is Special Agent Frank Parks; and Witt is Parks’ assistant. Together they investigate several possible murder suspects.

Step4
Extreme Forensic Psychiatrist Forensic Psychiatry. This field of medicine provides the subtext for the movie. Its focus of study is the relationship between mental health and the legal system. Forensic Psychiatrists are frequently called upon as expert consultants in criminal cases. They are considered experts in the field of diagnosing and treating mental disorders. Other famous fictional Forensic Psychiatrists include Dr. George Huang from the TV show Law and Order: SVU, and Dr. Spencer Reid from Criminal Minds. Hannibal Lecter was also a Forensic Psychiatrist...until he became a serial killing cannibal.
Step5
Poster for D.O.A. 1950 Influences. 88 Minutes is a modern day crime noir film heavily influenced by movies made in the 1940s and 50s. One major influence is the 1950 classic, D.O.A. In this film, Edmund O'Brien played an accountant who is poisoned has only days to figure out who poisoned him and why. D.O.A. was remade in 1988 with Dennis Quaid and Meg Ryan. If you have to make a choice which to see, look out for the original which is vastly superior to the clones. Other classic crime noir films include Double Indemnity (1944), The Maltese Falcon (1941) and Murder My Sweet (1944). If you're looking for something a little more modern in the same style, check out Resevoir dogs (1992), Insomnia (2002), and the surprisingly cool Kiss Kiss Bang Bang (2005).


How To Use Caffeine to Treat Migraines

Caffeine gets a bad reputation for causing headaches, and it is true that one of the most common symptoms of caffeine withdrawal is a headache. However, caffeine can also be used to treat certain types of headaches - specifically migraines and tension headaches.

  1. Understand how caffeine affects tension headaches. Tension headaches are the most common type of headache, and are often described as a constant dull pain. During a tension headache episode, blood vessels dilate, or open wider than normal. Caffeine actually helps the blood vessels to constrict, helping the headache subside.In fact, analgesics with caffeine are 40% more effective than those without in treating headaches. This explains why many people treat tension headaches with caffeine.

  2. Understand how caffeine affects migraines. Migraine headaches can occur for a variety of reasons, not all of which are completely understood. Migraines often occur on one side of the head and can be made worse by light, sounds, smells, or physical activity. Although it is not completely understood why caffeine helps migraines, many health professionals think that it is related to the fact that caffeine constricts blood vessels.

  3. Use painkillers that include caffeine to treat migraines. Analgesics containing caffeine can help with migraines. These include Excedrin, Anacin, Midol, and other painkillers. However, overusing caffeine or analgesics can make a migraine worse, so if you suffer from migraines, you should talk to your doctor.

  4. Use caffeinated beverages to control migraines. Since caffeine is a vasoconstrictor - constricting the blood vessels - caffeinated beverages can help headaches. The key here is moderation. Use a cup of coffee or two - or the equivalent amount of black tea or soda - and if your migraine does not improve, see a doctor.

  5. Understand that caffeine withdrawal can actually cause headaches. In your quest to rid yourself of headaches using caffeine, be careful how much caffeine you consume. Doctors generally do not recommend consuming more than 250-300 mg of caffeine each day. Caffeine withdrawal can actually cause headaches, when the blood vessels re-dilate. Many people find that they need to gradually cut down on caffeine to lessen withdrawal symptoms instead of stopping all at once.

  6. Do not use caffeine if you are pregnant or nursing. It is not completely understood how caffeine affects nursing babies or unborn children, so most medical professionals advise nursing and pregnant women not to use caffeine.

Coffee may not be the first thing you think of when you have a migraine, but you might want to keep a mug of it handy if you are prone to tension headaches or migraines. Like all headache remedies, results can vary, and you should talk to a doctor for more information.

Saturday, April 12, 2008

HOW TO: Remove scratches from CDs and DVDs

Scratched DVDThis simple guide will probably be a lifesaver for a lot of you out there, especially to those of you who have kids roaming their home. We all know it: if something is dear to your heart, no matter how careful you are, your kids will eventually break it.

What brought me to write this article is that my wonderful son, while being at home last week, climbed on a chair and got his hand on my precious Star Wars DVD collection.

Naturally, he did it silently so my wife—though only 20 feet from him, didn’t hear anything. After picking up the box set, he proceeded to bring out a few disks from the box and played with them, dragging them across our hardwood floor. I’m sure you can imagine the effect this operation had on the surface of the DVD’s… they were scratched thouroghly, and when played, the movie froze at critical moments.

Fortunately, I had already experienced something similar with a scratched CD and was able to repair it using a simple technique.

First, before trying anything, be sure to thoroughly clean the surface of your damaged CD. Sometimes, even if a disc is lightly scratched, it will play anyway if properly cleaned.

To do this, just take a piece of Microfiber cloth and clean your disk using eyeglass cleaner or an easy-to-make homemade solution we wrote about in the past. Be sure to wipe the CD / DVD starting from inside out and do not touch the reflective surface with your fingers while doing it. Do not attempt to clean the disc using circular motions! Doing so may worsen the condition of your media if you accidentally scratch it. (It’s always better to have a simple scratch going across one location on several tracks than one affecting the entire length of a single track.)

If after trying this, your disc still doesn’t work, you’ll need to employ a more drastic approach to the situation.

The only things you’ll need to do that is a soft cotton swab and a little bit of mild abrasive, such as Brasso. Be careful, Brasso emits fumes and can be very irritating. Perform the following steps in a well-ventilated area:

  1. Imbue your cotton swab with a little dab of Brasso.
  2. Gently polish the damaged area of your CD or DVD using a small circular motion until the scratch disappears or at least subdues.
  3. Rinse the media.

That’s it! Now stick your disc back inside your player, and attempt to play it again. Does it work? If yes, then great! If no, then repeat the above procedure. I also heard that white toothpaste and car-rubbing compound could be effective, but I have not tried them.

And yes, I was able to get my Star Wars DVD’s back in working condition with this technique, but please note that if you do this, you do it at your own risk. Putting up too much pressure on your scratched disc will probably worsen its condition instead of improving it, so don’t forget to be gentle!

This trick will also often work wonders on damaged PS2, PS3 and Xbox game CD’s.

Does anyone have additional tips on how to repair scratched CD’s and DVD’s? Let us know in the comment area of this post!



HOW TO: Delete an Undeletable or Locked File

Have you ever run into a situation where you wanted to delete a file, but Windows simply wouldn’t allow you to do it? Personally, these things happen to me all the time, especially when I’m at a client’s house trying to get their machine clean of malware. Have you ever tried deleting a locked file using common windows commands? If so, then you’ll know that this is just not possible.

The main reason behind this is that the explorer.exe process locks files that are in use, effectively preventing you from deleting them. Usually, these files should not be touched, but sometimes, situations arise when you really need to erase some troublesome ones.

Fortunately, there are a few easy solutions to delete those files.

Solution #1: Kill explorer.exe

  • Open a command prompt
  • Navigate to the location where the locked file is
  • Press CTRL-ALT-DEL, click on “task manager”, select the Processes tab
  • Kill the explorer.exe process via the “End Process” button
  • Go back to the command prompt and delete the file
  • Bring up the task manager windows again
  • Select file->new task
  • Type explorer.exe in the “create new task” field
  • Press OK.

Solution

#2: Use The Windows Recovery Console

Just stick your Windows CD in your CD tray, boot on it, and at the “Welcome to Setup” screen, press “R“. Once the recovery console has started, navigate to the location of your locked file, and delete it. Since WRC does not really start the system, the files will not be in use, and you will be able to delete them

Solution #3: Use unlocker

Unlocker is a very useful freeware that will allow you to unlock any files that are currently in use by Windows. You’ll know if this is happening if you are getting any of these messages when trying to delete a file:

  • Cannot delete file: Access is denied
  • There has been a sharing violation
  • The source or destination file may be in use
  • The file is in use by another program or user
  • Make sure the disk is not full or write-protected and that the file is not currently in use

Unlocker will make things right again for you.

You’ll notice that right after installing the software, a new option named “unlocker” will appear when right clicking any files or folders in Windows Explorer. To unlock a locked file, just right click it, select unlocker, and the unlocker software will start. Then, click “unlock all” and close the software. Now that your file is unlocked, just delete it in Windows Explorer, as you always do. This is much simpler than solution #1 or #2, isn’t it?

I hope these three solutions will help you get rid of those hard to delete files. If you’ve got any additional suggestions, the comment section is open for your comments!

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Consolidating Your Web Banter

Many Web users drop digital breadcrumbs all over the Web: a comment left on YouTube, a status update posted on Facebook, a mundane task noted on the microblogging service Twitter, a long-form update posted on a blog. But merging these services has long been a hassle, both in terms of publishing posts to all the services you use and consolidating the stream of updates you receive from your friends.

Now, some companies are building technology that helps connect these disparate conversations. Last week, Seesmic--a forthcoming video-conversation service--bought Twhirl, a startup that makes downloadable software that plugs directly into Twitter, a social-networking site where people can post updates about their activities in 140 characters or less.

Using Twhirl, a person can post to three services at once--Twitter, plus the similar services Pownce and Jaiku--and likewise get updates from friends using any one of these services, regardless of whether or not the friend uses Twhirl. Loic Le Meur, founder of Seesmic, says Twhirl will soon provide access to Seesmic and other services.

"When blogging and social software started," Le Meur says, "everyone kept their centralized information somewhere, like on their blog. Now we're coming into a situation that is totally opposite." He says when he goes online, he checks 10 different services, such as e-mail, Facebook, Twitter, and his blog. "It's a nightmare," he says. Because of the incompatibility of services, communicating with friends requires him to hop from one service to the next. "What matters isn't the services," he says, it's your friends.

New services link up conversations and messages from across the Web.

Currently, people need to know which of their friends use which services if they want to post a message for all of them to see. For instance, if you post a note using Twitter's website, you would need to repost the same note on Pownce in order for those who subscribe to your Pownce updates to automatically receive it. Even though the services provide comparable functions, the communities of users are kept separate. But as Twhirl and others continue to gather information from disparate services, online discussions could become less constrained. In other words, people could drastically minimize the maintenance that they put into their Web conversations.

Seesmic and Twhirl aren't alone in their attempt to consolidate people's online personal lives. A new company called FriendFeed, developed by former Google employees, also merges people's digital trails. The Web-based service automatically collects all the data you leave on the Web, from comments on YouTube videos or Flickr photos to blog posts and Twitters. So your friends can subscribe to your personal feed, instead of the myriad services you subscribe to.



Friday, April 11, 2008

How you can digitally sign OpenOffice.org documents

The ability to digitally sign OpenOffice.org documents is a boon for users who want to make their document exchange and collaboration secure. Using digital signatures in OpenOffice.org is not that difficult, but configuring it involves several steps that are far from obvious.
Before you enable the digital signatures feature in OpenOffice.org, you must obtain a digital certificate and install it on your machine. A digital certificate is a password-protected file that includes a variety of information, including the name and email address of the certificate owner, encryption key, issuing authority, and expiration period. Digital certificates are normally issued by so-called certificate authorities. Most certificate authorities charge for certificates, but not all do. CACert is a community-driven certificate authority that issues perfectly usable certificates free of charge.
To obtain a digital certificate from CAcert, you have to create an account, which takes just a few minutes. Once you've verified your email address, fire up Firefox, log in to CAcert, and request a certificate. Since you are going to use your certificate to sign documents, you have to obtain a so-called client certificate. To do this, click on the Client Certificates menu item, and press the New link. Follow the provided instructions, and once the certificate is created, click on the provided link to install it into the browser. To verify that the certificate is properly installed, choose Edit -> Preferences -> Advanced -> Security and press the View Certificates button. Under the Your Certificates tab, you should see the certificate. While you are at it, you might want to back up the certificate. Simply select the certificate, press the Import button, and save it in the desired location.
If you are on Linux, your certificate is ready to go. On Windows, there are a few additional steps. If you haven't imported the certificate as described above, do so. Double-click then on the certificate file. This launches the Certificate Import Wizard that guides you through the rest of the process. To check whether the certificate has been properly installed, choose Run from the Start menu and run the certmgr.msc command. You should see your certificate under Personal Certificates.
If you are using Windows, and you'd like to create a certificate for personal use with minimum fuss, you might want to try the free and easy-to-use utility SELFCERT from Abylonsoft, which allows you to create self-signed certificates. To create a self-signed certificate with Abylon SELFCERT, launch the program, fill out the fields, press the Create button, and save the file. Confirm that you want to import the certificate into the Windows certificate database, and follow the instructions provided by the Certificate Import wizard.
To sign an OpenOffice.org document using the created certificate, choose File -> Digital Signatures, press the Add button, select your certificate, and press OK to close the dialogs and sign the document. You should see a tiny Seal icon in the Status bar, which indicates that the document has now been digitally signed. Other users can view the certificate by double-clicking on the Seal icon and pressing the View Certificate button.
The Seal icon indicates that the document has not been altered in any way. Modifying a signed document on your machine automatically removes the digital signature, and you must sign the document again once you're done editing it.
There are other visual clues that you can use to monitor the security status of the document. A red seal and a small yellow triangle with an exclamation mark indicates that the document signature is in order and the document hasn't been modified, but the certificate used for signing could not be validated. A yellow triangle with a black exclamation mark indicates that the document signature is broken, which indicates that the document has been altered and can't be trusted.
Using the digital signatures feature, you can sign not only OpenOffice.org documents, but also OOoBasic macros. This allows the end users to verify the authenticity of a macro before executing it. There are two ways to sign a macro. You can either choose Tools -> Macro -> Digital Signature, or choose File -> Digital Signatures when you are in the OOoBasic Editor.
Troubleshooting
If OpenOffice.org on Linux can't detect the installed certificate, you need to export your Firefox default profile path in the environment variable MOZILLA_CERTIFICATE_FOLDER using the following command:
export MOZILLA_CERTIFICATE_FOLDER=~/.mozilla/firefox/profile.default
Replace the profile.default part with the actual profile folder (it looks something like this: 6nx55faj.default). You can also add this line to the .bashrc file in your home directory.
On some Linux distros (notably, PCLinuxOS), OpenOffice.org only detects certificates which are installed in Mozilla Thunderbird (only if Thunderbird is installed on your machine). In this case, you need to export the certificate from Firefox and import it into Thunderbird.
Obtaining, installing, and using digital certificates requires some work, but it can help you make sure that your documents are secure.

Thursday, April 10, 2008

How To Building an Aluminum Airplane

Once you have decided to begin the adventure of building your own airplane, you are faced with what type to build. The choices are almost overwhelming. Do you build a kit airplane or buy a set of plans? What type of construction? Composite, tube and fabric, wood, sheet metal, or a combination. In previous articles I have discussed the process of building a tube and fabric airplane. This article will provide you with an overview of the procedures involved in building your own sheet metal airplane. Many high quality aluminum aircraft kits and plans are available. Hopefully, after reading this article you will better understand what is involved in building an all metal airplane.

Aluminum airplanes have been flying for many years. Today they are considered the standard type of construction for most factory built airplanes. The aluminum alloys used in the construction of aircraft are very strong and relatively light in weight. Sheet metal construction is used on a large majority of aircraft in one form or another. Often tube and fabric airplanes will have aluminum cowlings, fairings, etc.. Even if you are not considering construction of an aluminum airplane the odds of using several sheet metal skills in building your aircraft are high. Most builders will want to have at least a basic knowledge of sheet metal techniques.

There are 5 basic steps in the process of building an aluminum airplane. These steps are: (1) Planning, (2) Basic building, (3) Assembly, rigging and systems installation, (4) Inspection, certification, and test flying, (5) Final painting. Some builders will elect to paint their aircraft prior to their test flight while others will wait until they have flown the airplane several hours to see if any additional rigging is needed or any other problems surface that would require some disassembly. There are also certain basic tasks involved in most sheet metal work. These consist of cutting, bending, drilling, countersinking or dimpling, and riveting. Each will be discussed later.

Lets assume you have made the decision to build an aluminum airplane - either from a set of plans or from one of the airplane kits that are available. Step number one is Planning. I cannot overemphasize the need to properly plan. Your success in completing your project is largely dependent upon your planning. You certainly cannot anticipate every problem that will arise but you can prepare yourself for most of the stages of aircraft building. Begin by spending a lot of time reviewing the aircraft plans and/or the assembly manual. A thorough study of the manual prior to beginning construction will pay dividends throughout the entire building process. You will know where to begin, what tools will be needed, space required, safety considerations, etc.. Resist the temptation to uncrate the kit and start working. This is a common occurrence and one that should be avoided.

Like any other aircraft building project, an all metal airplane can be constructed in a space the size of a two-car garage. Obviously, the more space you have the easier it will be to work. Consideration should be given to where to store the kit in addition to storage of the materials that you will use. The kit will arrive in crates and usually one of the crates will contain sheets of aluminum. I would suggest that you leave the aluminum in the crate until you use it. Just be sure to store the crate in a dry area. Aluminum sheets are very easy to damage. More on that later. A workbench will be needed along with a work table on which to assemble component parts. Organize your tools and your hardware as much as possible before you begin. Remember to plan a space to store completed parts prior to assembly. You will want them out of the way so they will not be damaged. It may be necessary for you to rent a hangar space at an airport during the final assembly stage. If you are working in your basement or garage, noise will be a factor. Drilling and riveting are not quiet activities. If you prime most of your aluminum pieces prior to assembly, you must consider the paint fumes and perhaps even construct a small paint booth out of plastic sheets. Certainly, if you decide to paint your own aircraft you will need to build a paint booth and the paint fumes will need to be eliminated.

When we discuss tools for sheet metal construction the bottom line is you cannot have too many. There is a tool you can purchase for every job. Most kit manufacturers and designers will provide you with a list of necessary tools. If they do not, the tool supply companies usually have assembled a list of needed tools. It is not necessary to invest in a metal shear or a metal brake. Both of these tools can be very expensive and they also require a large amount of floor or table space. They are nice to have tools but not mandatory. Selection of a rivet gun is important. You will be spending a lot of time with this tool so make the selection carefully. Rivet guns are pneumatic tools and the two most popular for our use are the 2X and 3X guns. The X simply has to do with the length of the gun. A 2X gun is adequate for driving up to 1/8-inch rivets. Above that size you will probably want a 3X gun. A 3X gun basically hits the rivet slower and harder. Make sure when you squeeze the trigger of your rivet gun you can vary the strength of the impact. Try out a rivet gun before purchasing if possible. Squeezing rivets is also an option. Several rivet squeezers are available, both hand squeezers and pneumatic squeezers. One unique tool that is available is pictured in this article. This tool can be used to rivet and dimple aluminum with the stroke of a mallet.

You will need an air compressor capable of delivering 80-100 psi of air pressure. Your air compressor will be a primary piece of equipment. You will be using a lot of air tools. Tank size is just as important as motor horsepower. The larger the tank the more volume of air stored. This means you will not deplete your air source as rapidly when you are using your pneumatic drill or a die grinder. Finally, when thinking about sheet metal tools think clecos. A cleco is a small metal holder that is installed in a rivet hole to temporarily fasten two pieces of metal together prior to riveting. You are going to need a large amount of clecos, often 500+. They come in different sizes so be sure you check your manual for the proper ones. Bucking bars, which are used for riveting, are needed. You never seem to have too many shapes and sizes of bucking bars. Once again, review the list of tools provided by the kit manufacturer or tool company for a complete listing.

Two other major factors involved in building your airplane -- time and money. The time necessary to build your aircraft is dependent upon many different factors. It is virtually impossible to define an exact amount of time. A few elements to consider regarding time are: Your technical knowledge and skills, tools available, type of work you do, assistance available, quality of assembly manual, family pressures, climate, plans-built or kitplane, and on and on. As you can see there is not a simple answer for the question of "how much time." As a rule of thumb, you can figure somewhere between 2,000 and 3,000 hours to assemble an aluminum kitplane. Concerning cost, the price of the kit itself can be easily determined from the manufacturer. However, in addition there are a number of other costs that are not as easily calculated. Some examples are shipping costs of the kit, cost of the engine, propeller, avionics, instruments, upholstery, paint, etc.. It is advisable to add up the total cost as best you can so you will not be surprised with the final number.

In previous articles I have mentioned four primary reasons that contribute to low completion rates of airplane building projects. Two of these reasons are underestimating the total time and the total finances required. With proper planning you can at least be somewhat prepared for what lies ahead. As a review, the other two reasons are lack of family involvement and inadequate technical knowledge. I feel it is essential that you involve your family. Family members have a lot of opportunities to assist with sheet metal construction. One of these is riveting. Riveting is usually a two person activity. This is a perfect chance to involve other members of the family. With the amount of riveting necessary you will certainly learn to appreciate their help. Obviously there are many other areas where assistance is necessary and can be provided by family members.

Try to gain as much technical knowledge as possible before beginning construction. There are a number of videos and books available on sheet metal construction techniques. You can also find builders’ groups on the internet for most airplane types. Individuals within these groups are usually a very good source for information. Take advantage of EAA Technical Counselors within your local chapter. Find someone else who is building a similar type of airplane and spend as much time with them as possible. Attend one of the EAA/SportAir workshops enrolling in the sheet metal class. The training offered will provide you with basic knowledge and allow you to construct a section of an airfoil out of aluminum. Remember that lack of knowledge often is f Now that we are adequately prepared to begin construction, lets talk about some of the basics of sheet metal construction. First of all, I will discuss the actual material used in sheet aluminum. Pure aluminum is rarely used in sheet form because of its low strength and softness. Instead, alloy elements are added to the aluminum such as copper, manganese, magnesium and chromium. These alloys, along with heat treatment, will increase the strength of the material. The total percentage of alloying elements is usually less than 5-7%. One of the most common aluminum alloys used in aircraft construction is designated as 2024 T3. Copper is the element used with aluminum for this alloy. It is further heat treated to obtain optimum characteristics. This type of aluminum is very strong and it is used mainly for structural applications. The T3 indicates the temper or type of heat treatment. 2024-T3 aluminum usually has a coating of pure aluminum pressed on as a final layer to prevent corrosion. This is known as an alclad surface. So when you purchase aluminum for your project you will see the complete designation of 2024-T3 alclad aluminum. Care must be taken to prevent damage or scratches to the alclad surface. It is very easily damaged. Another type of aluminum used is designated 3003. This alloy contains manganese and is used for construction of cowlings and for other non-structural uses. 6061-T6 aluminum is often used to form attach angles, etc.. It is comprised of aluminum, silicon, and magnesium. These three are the most popular types of aluminum sheets that are used within our industry. The thickness of aluminum sheets is measured in thousandths of an inch width.025 and.032 being the most common.

The primary type of fastener used in sheet metal construction is the rivet. Solid shank rivets are most commonly used in aircraft construction and they consist of a head, known as the manufactured head, and a shank. After driving the rivet, the resultant driven head is known as a "shop head." This is simply the shank that has expanded as a result of the riveting procedure. The most common rivet types that we will use are the AN426 (MS20426) which is an aluminum alloy rivet with a 100 degree countersunk head, and the AN470 (MS20470) which is also an aluminum alloy rivet with a universal head. It is important to note that all structural rivets have a small dimple in the middle of the head. This serves both as identification and as a means to assist in removing the rivet if that becomes necessary. Rivet diameter is measured in 32nds of an inch and the length is measured in 16ths of an inch. The most common rivet sizes used in custom built aircraft are 3/32 and 1/8 inch in diameter.

Primary attention must be given to safety during our planning stage. Eye protection is absolutely essential. Drilling metal, grinding, and other tasks, can create metal shavings that can be thrown into an eye. Be sure to wear adequate eye protection. A full face shield is recommended when you are using a die grinder (high speed grinder). Metal shavings from the aluminum along with pieces of fiberglass from the cutting wheel are thrown with tremendous speed and impact. A high speed grinder can be very hazardous if not used properly. Ear protection should be used during several tasks such as riveting and drilling. When drilling, be sure your fingers and hands are not in line with the end of the drill bit. Disconnect the drill from its source of air prior to changing bits. Avoid loose fitting clothing. Disconnect rivet guns from their source of air before changing rivet sets. Avoid operating a rivet gun unless the set is against a piece of wood or a rivet. If you pull the trigger without having the set against an object, the set can become a small missile.

As a final reminder concerning the planning stage, use the checklist printed in an earlier Sport Aviation issue that lists the items needed for final inspection and certification of your aircraft. Begin preparing for the final inspection from the onset of the project. In particular, the builder’s log needs to be started along with a review of needed paperwork.

The Basic Building stage (this is what we have been waiting for) is next. The manual has been reviewed so lets begin work. Begin with a small part. Most kits start with a horizontal stabilizer or another section of the tail. This allows you some practice to improve your skills without the possibility of ruining a large component part. Most sheet metal construction will be done in phases. Very simply, you will first cut the metal and bend if needed. Next you drill rivet holes and assemble the parts with clecos. After initial assembly, you will then disassemble and prime the part if you so choose. You will also dimple or countersink if you will be using countersunk rivets. You then reassemble the unit with clecos and rivet it together. So, the steps are:

    1. cut the pieces to size and bend if needed

    2. drill holes for rivets and cleco each hole

    3. disassemble the pieces

    4. deburr the holes

    5. countersink or dimple the holes

    6. prime the part -- if required

    7. reassemble the pieces together using clecos

    8. rivet the pieces together

Sounds simple enough doesn’t it. So we have some basic skills and tasks that are required. They are:

    1. cutting

    2. bending

    3. drilling

    4. countersinking and/or dimpling

    5. riveting

    6. removal of rivets

Yes, removal of rivets. You will probably become very proficient at that job. There are other tasks that are sometimes needed such as a procedure called fluting. I will only discuss the basics listed above.

I will begin with a brief discussion of cutting aluminum. Many tools are available to cut metal. The easiest and most efficient way is to use a large shear. Since many of us cannot afford to purchase this tool other cutting devices are available. The most common are snips that are available in 3 types: right cutting (green handles), left cutting (red handles), and straight cutting (yellow handles). Pneumatic power shears and nibblers are also accessible. Needless to say, it is important that you measure carefully prior to making a cut. Most of the experts agree that you should use a fine point sharpie marker to mark and then make your cut about ¼ to ½ inch away from that mark. This will allow you to make a second cut closer and then file or polish to the final dimension. Mistakes in cutting are costly. The old adage applies "measure twice and cut once." After you have made your cut you will want to smooth the edges of the cut piece using an edging tool and trim the corners so you will not cut your hand.

Bending aluminum can pose a problem, however, most parts supplied with a kitplane are partially bent or pre-bent. Any bending required by most kit manufacturers could be accomplished using a small brake that can be constructed from wood. The kit manufacturer will usually show a drawing of this brake in the manual. A sheet metal brake simplifies the bending process and is very helpful although not necessary. If you cannot afford a large brake, several smaller versions are available. A detailed discussion of bending techniques is out of the scope of this article. Suffice to say that you will encounter very little bending if you are building a metal kitplane. A plans-built airplane could be a different matter.

The next task is drilling holes for the rivets. The size of rivets to be used along with the required spacing will be presented within your manual or plans. (Remember that structural rivets will have a dimple on the head of the rivet.) A pneumatic drill is the best tool for the job. Again, you will want a good quality drill. You will want to control the speed of the motor that is only possible with the higher quality drills. Most people recommend using a pilot bit for the initial hole followed by drilling with the next larger size bit prior to riveting. As an example, a 3/32 inch rivet will not fit into a hole drilled by a 3/32 inch bit. Drill bits are designated by numbers with a number 40 bit being the next size larger than a 3/32 inch bit. So a number 40 bit would be used to drill the final hole to accept a 3/32 inch rivet. If you are using countersunk rivets, the dimpling process, which will be discussed later, will often enlarge the hole to accept the rivet without additional drilling. Support the piece you are drilling with wood or particleboard. Drilling aluminum causes a burr to form on each side of the piece. These burrs must be removed by a process termed "deburring." Failure to deburr could cause a separation between the two pieces being riveted together or it could cause the rivet to not fit tightly. A special tool is used for this process. Good technique is to drill the pilot holes in both pieces, clecoing them together, then remove the clecos and deburr both sides. Clecos are color coded according to their size and they are applied using a special pair of pliers.

The next step is to countersink or dimple if using countersunk rivets. AN426 rivets require a 100 degree countersink. Dimpling is preferred over countersinking but it can only be done on thinner metals -- .040 thickness or less. Special dimpling tools are available that basically consist of a set of dies (male shaped to match the rivet head and female corresponding to the degree of countersink) which are squeezed together with the aluminum in between. This will press the metal surrounding a rivet hole into the proper shape to fit a flush rivet. It is imperative that the rivet fit securely to achieve maximum strength. The metal is stretched somewhat during this procedure usually opening the hole to the proper size without additional drilling. Countersinking is done with a special bit attached to a drill on thicker metals - .040 and thicker.

Next we are ready to rivet. This is usually accomplished using a rivet gun or a rivet squeezer. The rivet squeezer is preferred but its use is often limited because of its design (jaw depth). The shop head (head resulting from driving or squeezing the rivet) is much more uniform and balanced when squeezed. Hand squeezers and pneumatic squeezers are available. Driving a rivet using a rivet gun often requires an additional set of hands. This is where you can bring the family together for some "quality time." Riveting requires some practice to gain proficiency. Practice on scrap pieces before working on the "real thing." The shop head that results from driving or squeezing the rivet must meet certain criteria. A properly driven rivet will have a shop head of at least 1 ½ times the diameter of the rivet shank in width and about 2/3 of the diameter in height. Special tools are available to quickly check the rivet for proper installation.

Removing rivets is a skill you will learn and practice more than you would like. We do make mistakes. When the rivet is installed improperly it must be removed. When you remove the rivet you want to be sure you do not enlarge the rivet hole. Also, if a rivet is improperly removed the strength of the joint could be weakened. As mentioned, rivet heads have a small dimple in them. Use your drill and place the correct size bit into the dimple. It is best to use a bit one size smaller than the rivet shank. Start the drill and simply drill off the head of the rivet. The rivet shank can then be removed by driving it out using a pin punch or by pulling it out using diagonal cutters.

The question of corrosion proofing aluminum always arises. Aluminum will not rust but it will corrode. The alclad layer on aluminum acts as a shield to prevent corrosion. However, I would recommend that you prime all surfaces for maximum protection. Some builders will actually prime their sheets of aluminum prior to cutting. This serves to protect the aluminum against scratches and nicks during construction. It is certainly desirable to prime any 6061 aluminum parts or 3003. Neither of these has an alclad coating that means they are more susceptible to corrosion. Corrosion proofing new aluminum surfaces is fairly simple. Clean the surface thoroughly using a cleaner and scotch brite pad then apply a conversion coating such as Poly-Fiber E2300 or alodine. The coating is necessary to provide the adhesion needed for the primer to stick to the surface. Etching is not necessary on new aluminum. Next, apply a two-part epoxy primer - one light coat will be sufficient. If the surface will receive paint at a later date it is desirable to apply a somewhat thicker coat that will provide a surface for sanding subsequent coats of paint. As an absolute minimum apply a conversion coating for corrosion protection.

The next step in our building process is the Assembly, rigging, and systems installation. Several kits require a certain amount of assembly and rigging prior to completion of a component part. As an example, the wings are often mated to the fuselage and the ailerons rigged prior to final closing of the wing skins. Try to install as many systems as possible before you assemble the aircraft. Fuel lines, hydraulic lines, instruments, etc. can usually be installed. The tail is often assembled and rigged first. Then, of course, the completed wings are installed. At that time the engine, cowlings, canopy, etc. will be placed on the aircraft.

Next comes the fourth phase Inspection, certification, and test flying. This phase has been covered completely in a previous article. The last phase is the final painting of the aircraft. As previously discussed, some builders will elect to paint the airplane prior to assembly, some will paint it before they test fly the airplane, and others will test fly and then apply the final paint. Any one of the methods is acceptable and it depends upon your choice.

You will find the building of a sheet metal aircraft to be a very challenging and rewarding experience. Mal Harper of Griffin, GA is pictured in this article. Mal is building a RV-6 and he is about 2/3 finished with the project. Mal is a retired airline pilot who now has a considerable amount of time to devote to the project. His wife Mary also provides a lot of assistance. Mal currently has 1700 hours on his project. He is fortunate in that he lives on a community airstrip where he has hangar and workshop. Plenty of space and nice tools make the job much easier.

I have presented an overview of building a sheet metal airplane. Certainly this is not intended to be a technical article on sheet metal construction, rather a summary of the most common skills required. Hopefully, the contents will be useful to you if you are undecided about what type of airplane to build or if you are simply undecided about building at all. I would encourage you to begin the building process. I do not believe you will find a more fulfilling project. The completion rate on sheet metal airplane projects appears to be high. A large number are completed and flying. Certainly the performance of the majority of these airplanes is impressive and the cost is reasonable. What are you waiting for?

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

How to Find and Change Windows Product Key and Registration Information

Magical Jelly Bean Keyfinder is freeware utility by which you can you do the following:
  1. Find your Windows 95, 98, ME, NT4, 2000, XP, Server 2003, Windows Vista product keys.
  2. Find your Windows 95, 98, ME, NT4, 2000, XP, Server 2003, Windows Vista registration information.
  3. Change your Windows 95, 98, ME, and XP product key. (Windows 2000, 2003, NT4 and Vista supported)
  4. Change your windows registration information.
  5. Find your Microsoft Office 97, Office XP, and Office 2003 installation key. (Office 2000 not supported).

The screenshots provided below illustrate the process of changing your windows product key and registration information.


Is this software legal?


Yes this legal because Microsoft itself has knowledge base article which describes how to change your windows key and provides the script for this process. This freeware utility utilizes those scripts.

You can download this freeware (File Size: 260Kb):Download 1
Download 2

Disclaimer:
Certain antivirus software like Mcafee and Nod32 consider this file as spyware and delete it, but this file is absolutely harmless you can go ahead and try it.

Author’s Site: Magical Jelly Bean


Sunday, April 6, 2008

Become a Dog Trainer

Are you a dog lover who is considering turning your passion into a profession? It takes more to be a trainer than a love of dogs--here’s the inside scoop from an experienced professional.

1. A dog trainer actually trains people to train dogs. If you’re not a “people person,” consider carefully whether this profession is for you. You must have patience, compassion, excellent communications skills, and be a good listener. Instructing people can be fun and stimulating, but it can be challenging as well. A sense of humor helps!

2. Learn about canine psychology and behavior. Seek out books and familiarize yourself with basic learning theory as it applies to dogs. Understanding maxims such as “That which is rewarded is more likely to happen again” and “That which is ignored is likely to extinguish on its own” will serve you well throughout your work with basic training and behavioral issues. There are many DVDs now available that have been filmed at instructional seminars for dog trainers, many of which include video footage and/or live demonstrations; it’s always easier to learn by seeing theory in action. (Tawzer Dog Videos is known in the industry for having wide selection.) Also, the Association of Pet Dog Trainers' website has recommendations regarding educational materials for dog trainers. And attending live seminars and conferences is another excellent way to gain knowledge. There are some schools for dog trainers, but be careful to check out their training methods. One excellent school is the San Francisco SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers.

3. Seek out hands-on experience. Volunteering for your local shelter or rescue group is one of the best ways to get comfortable handling a variety of breeds, and to learn about behavior issues. It’s also a crash course in learning to read canine body language! Shelter and rescue work provide an opportunity to practice your training skills, and you’ll be helping to make dogs more adoptable in the process. Apprenticing under another trainer is another invaluable opportunity, if you can find one in your area willing to take you on. Assist in group classes, tag along to in-home sessions, and learn everything you can. If there is a trainer’s networking group in your area, join, learn, and make friends; you’ll get invaluable advice as you proceed along your career path. Although there is no license required to call oneself a professional dog trainer, you should have a well-rounded education before opening a business.

4. Learn about positive, modern training methods. There are two major schools of thought regarding dog training: the old-fashioned method, where one waits for the dog to make a mistake and then punishes him, for example, by the jerk of a choke chain. The other, modern, more positive method makes use of the tenets of canine psychology, and employs food treats and other rewards. Dogs are set up to succeed and then rewarded when they do the right thing. Of course, many training methods fall into the grey area between these two, but seek out sources of information that are geared toward the positive.

5. Take it slow. That applies to both building your business and the cases you should accept. Business-wise, if you are currently employed, start training as a part-time job on the side and allow yourself time to let both your business and your skills build. Behavior-wise, take on only the cases you are comfortable with; refer ones such as those involving aggression issues to more experienced trainers until you are ready to handle them yourself. With time, patience, perseverance, and experience, your business as well as your competence level will increase.

6. Get certified. Eventually, once you have some experience under your belt, take the test to become a Certified Pet Dog Trainer. This designation is offered by the Certification Council for Pet Dog Trainers.

Nicole Wilde is a Certified Pet Dog Trainer and the author of six canine-related books, including Help for Your Fearful Dog and So You Want to be a Dog Trainer. She presents instructional seminars worldwide, works with shelter and rescue groups, and is considered an expert on wolfdogs (aka wolf hybrids). Her books and seminar DVDs are available through Phantom Publishing at www.phantompub.com.



How To Cut Your Own Hair

For some people, going to the salon or barber shop is an enjoyable experience. For others, it is something that they would rather not do. Whether it is because of the cost or other factors, if you decide to cut your own hair, you should keep a few things in mind.

1. Wet hair is much easier to cut than dry hair. Start with freshly shampooed, tangle-free hair. Keep a bottle of water with a spray nozzle nearby so that you can dampen your hair if it begins to dry while you are working on it.

2. Be sure that your scissors are nice and sharp to avoid pulling your hair. If you plan to cut your hair on a regular basis, it will be worth investing in a good quality pair of scissors designed specifically for use on hair.
3. No matter what style you choose, cut a little at a time, especially if you are a beginner. You can always cut it a little shorter, but once you've gone too short, all you can do is wait for it to grow back!
4. Simple styles are best for home hair cuts. The easiest cut will be one length everywhere. Decide on an overall length (it's a good idea to measure your hair when you have a cut that you find especially flattering) and then grab your ruler. Working in small sections, comb your hair straight out from your scalp and hold a section smoothly between your index and middle fingers. Measure to the desired length and carefully snip off the excess. Continue in this manner until you have cut all of your hair. This method works equally well for both men and women. The length of the chosen cut can vary from quite short to shoulder length and beyond.

5. You may want to start with a professional cut and then just trim about the same amount of hair from all areas of your head every month or two to maintain the style. Be aware that on most people, the hair on one side of their head grows faster than on the other, so if you choose this method, you will need to visit your stylist every now and then as the cut begins to get uneven.
6. Another idea for a simple, yet attractive cut is to lean over and comb all of your wet hair straight forward. Smooth sections of your hair through your fingers and cut all hair in one straight line across. Be sure to work in small sections and continue from one side to the other. Double check to see that the cut feels pretty even and then stand upright. Part your hair in the middle and comb it straight down. Run small sections of your hair between your index and middle fingers to see if there are any long pieces. If you find some, carefully snip off the excess.
7. If you have curly hair, be sure to cut your hair considerably longer than the desired finished length. Curls shrink up quite a bit as they dry, so you must allow for this. If your hair is very thick or coarse, hold very small sections of hair for trimming. Trying to cut too much hair at once, especially for thick hair, can make the hair bend between the blades of the scissors, instead of cutting evenly.
8. For all styles, when you think that you are finished, be sure to check that the cut feels even everywhere. Simply take sections of hair from opposite sides of your head and gently tug them toward your eyes, nose, chin and jaw line to see that the sides are fairly evenly matched. Carefully trim prices that seem a little too long.
9. For bangs, begin with your hair parted in the center. Using your comb, take an equal amount of hair from each side of the part line and comb it forward. Smooth the hair between your index and middle fingers and cut across, being careful to maintain a straight line.
10. Currently, many men are choosing to wear their hair "buzzed" or cut extremely short. This cut can be easily achieved at home by using an electric hair clipper. These lightweight clippers allow you to set the blades to your desired length, ranging from completely bald to several inches of hair. By simply running the clipper across your head repeatedly, you will clip all hair to the desired length. For the easiest men's haircut of all, simply lather up with a thick shaving cream and shave your head smooth. This look is especially favored by athletes.
11. One word of caution--keep it simple. If you are inexperienced at cutting your own hair and looking for a complicated style with many angles or layers, you will probably need to enlist the help of a friend to be sure that your haircut is even in areas that are difficult for you to reach.
12. As you get more comfortable cutting your own hair, you may want to attempt more complicated styles. There are a number of terrific books and videos available that offer step-by-step guidance. A video can be especially helpful since you get to see the procedure in action and can replay it as many times as necessary to help you fine-tune your skills.

Required Tools:
*Comb
*Scissors
*Spritzer bottle of water
*2 mirrors

Caution:
Be careful! It is easy to snip your fingers along with your hair!
Cut a little at a time--especially if you are a beginner.
Quick Tips:
Take your time, especially the first few times that you cut your own hair. Like anything, it will get easier with practice.
To check the back of your hair, stand in front of a mirror and hold a hand-held mirror behind you.
When you do go to the salon, pay attention to how your stylist cuts your hair. It's the perfect place to pick up some helpful tips!

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